diy kitchen cabinet makeover
Even if I hate it)
But every time I take a picture in the kitchen I feel too busy or just not free.
Not to mention, even if I scrub the kitchen from top to bottom, my kitchen will look messy and not have the best!
Who can handle such worthless things and still stay motivated? !
So I decided to buckle down and do something.
I designed a plan for a small renovation of our kitchen and my dear support husband provided some small input.
I decided to buy white cabinets, gray subway tile backboards, dark wood floors, gray walls and slate-colored countertops.
My husband wants wooden floors and concrete countertops.
He is much bolder than I am.
I wrote this instruction in my first business: my cabinet!
If you can\'t get to the area you need to fix, you won\'t be able to start working.
That means you have to mess up another area of the house and completely block it off ,-Heaven forbid! -
But you absolutely don\'t want the paint to spill on your priceless antique cutlery, or even the pot of random green beans.
So, pack all your cutlery, food and any other items collected on your countertop, cabinet rack and drawer.
Then place them in a convenient place in your house or garage where they will not touch your paint or primer.
Now we can start working!
The real first step is to make sure you have good materials to use.
The paint doesn\'t stick to dirty greasy cabinets, and I don\'t want it to stick to them anyway.
Knowing that yuck is stuck forever on my kitchen cabinet may bother me while eating.
So, this is your chance to show your discerning, meticulous nature!
If you don\'t have a character of this type, all you need to do is tighten and fake it.
Make sure you get a good detergent.
I bought the kitchen remodel bag from Rustoleum with a deglosser inside to do more.
Just take a sponge, scrub and rag to clean up every corner and gap!
Remember when I said I \'d move everything?
Including cabinet hardware!
This includes knobs, pull and hinges.
I even removed the drawer from the glider.
If possible, move the cabinet door and drawer to the table you plan to paint immediately after removal.
So you can put them in the kitchen.
Not all cabinet doors and drawers are in the same size, which can avoid the trial and error you made for the Tetris version.
You can\'t simply write on the door to tell you where it is right because you will cover the whole thing with paint.
If you are reusing the hardware, make sure that the hardware is cleaned up in the steps above and in the Cabinet itself.
It is a good idea to put the hardware of each door/drawer in a container marked by yourself for reuse.
To make our kitchen feel updated, I am replacing all the old hardware with the new brushed nickel hardware.
Some of my cabinet doors and drawer surfaces are a bit of water damaged and need to be polished to eliminate bending.
To make the process faster and easier, I took out my electric sander.
According to the instructions of the pigment, the rest do not need to be polished.
OK, I\'m an old school, just a little anal, so I can\'t convince myself that the sand paint doesn\'t actually need to be applied to the sand surface. Sooo. . .
I started polishing all my cabinet doors, drawers and shelves with a track Sander.
I would rather do a little extra work at the beginning than redo everything later.
In fact, I may have to stop revisiting the fears of the work that was supposed to be perfect.
Other paints do need to be polished, so be sure to read your specific product requirements.
I\'m trying to make sure that I keep the sanding machine as level as possible and don\'t grind it too long at any one place.
I want to draw another beautiful plane in the future.
Keeping the Polish uniform helps the paint stick together in different areas, not together.
I used 120 sandpaper.
In addition, be sure to regularly remove any deposits piled up on sandpaper on the cabinet finish.
I just pulled the building down with my hands and threw it into the trash can.
This greatly extends the life of sandpaper, and think about it, you become green without even creating extra waste!
Be sure to clean up any residual dirt and dust on the surface of the cabinet with a wet rag.
When you draw, you don\'t want the nasty dust mixed up with your paint.
Again, the wasted work will make you sick, or just me? ?
Oh, if you want to fill in any Ding, dents, or holes, this is the step to get these done.
Or, if you want the knob instead of pulling, you fill in the second hole.
According to the instructions on the package, fill the target area with wooden putty.
Rinse it clean with cabinet door/drawer.
After you grind the Sander into a bone, you need to collect all the tools and supplies to draw.
There\'s nothing more important than running out of something important, like the last tablespoon or so of paint, you need to finish the final brush.
In addition to collecting all these important supplies, you will also need to cover every nearby surface that you do not want to reach out to your beautiful new paint, or maybe not so nearby.
You can put plastic or cloth drops on the floor and stick them to the floor at the bottom of the cabinet with painter tape.
You can also choose to put a plastic cloth on your countertop and tailgate or use brown paper.
I chose to use painter tape on the wall and back with brown paper cloth and cloth for the floor.
I didn\'t bother to cover my countertop because I would replace them and the tailgate later.
I did put painter tape on all the edges where they would come across cabinets because I didn\'t want the paint to stick to the tailgate and the countertop.
This may cause the paint to peel off when it is removed.
Here\'s my supply list: PrimerBase coated paint-
White protective CoatCompare foam mini paint roller designed for use in cabinets with extra lids (Primer)Foam Brushes (Primer)4 -
2 inch angle synthetic Bristled paint brush (
Bottom coat paint and protective layer)
Paint tank opener Wood mixer stick paint tray (
Use with roller)Paint Bucket/Cup (
Use with brush)
I am an old school and my anal reservation requires me to put on a primer instead of a layer but two layers of primer.
Depending on the original color of your paint base and Cabinet, you may only need one or two layers of primer.
First of all, my husband decided it would be a good idea to try to spray a primer on the inside of the Cabinet with his Wagner Spray.
He thought it would be a good starting point for the interior and it quickly and easily filled all those corners and gaps that were hard to reach with a brush. I thought \"Wow!
Less work, I totally agree!
\"I don\'t know. . .
Unfortunately, by spraying in such a limited space, it leads to a large amount of over-spraying, which tends to flow in some places.
It also used white paint to dust off items near our kitchen.
Pay attention to our trash can and now there is a cover with a star pattern!
It took me a lot of time scraping and scrubbing to get it off all my floors and countertops.
It definitely didn\'t save me time and energy.
The lid of the trash can is a lost reason, and now it\'s just a novelty and a great story.
Apply primer (
Except for what my husband did with his sprayer)
, I painted the flat part of the cabinet and shelf with a sponge roller.
It is much faster than the brush and runs smoothly. Whee! ! !
For corners and other places that are harder to get to, I used a foam brush of different sizes.
I painted every visible surface from the front to the back of the shadows.
If I stand on the other side of the kitchen with plenty of lights and no doors --
I may see a part that is not drawn and it just won\'t be done.
For those of you who are not so picky, make sure you really paint the top and bottom of the cabinet shelf well, as people at different heights may see more of one or the other than you.
Even I refuse to paint the part of the cabinet wall that is always behind the drawer.
For areas that no one sees, it is useless to waste the cost of paint.
See that we are \"green\" again!
Well, maybe it\'s not really green, but it\'s better to reduce waste and cost.
To paint the cabinet doors, I put them on the table with some triangles under the table to support them.
This can get quite expensive, so you can also put two screws into two screws in one four points and place two of them under each door.
Or, if you really have time to kill time, you can just draw one side and make it completely dry.
Then flip it and draw another
One side of the door, let it dry completely.
Flip, paint, dry, flip, paint, dry. . . . Until finished.
To paint the inside of the drawer, we used the paint sprayer conveniently, so we hung the drawer on the tree and sprayed it with primer.
Then I asked them to dry when hanging.
If you do the same, be sure to pay attention to the dripping or flowing of paint.
Make sure the primer between each application is dry enough.
You don\'t want paint peeling and buckles.
You also need to wash and dry the brushes and equipment between each use.
If you don\'t do this, the paint will dry inside and make them useless.
My husband also painted the drawer outside with his beautiful Wagner sprayer.
He hung them on the oak tree in our backyard and sprayed them away.
It\'s a beautiful job this time!
He says he has only a few bugs/leaves in the new spray paint.
He removed them with paper towels and then re-sprayed the area until it was completely uniform.
It saves time and effort. he can\'t mess up things outside. Haha!
For the exterior of the cabinets, doors and drawers, I used a synthetic bristled paint brush with a 2 inch angle to make it look more professional.
I like 2 inch because it covers a good area (
It means less strokes are needed.
At the same time, these smaller boards are still installed between the cabinet doors (
Less paint on unused bristles).
Be sure to let the paint dry enough time between the coatings.
Like a primer, when I painted the door, I held up the door to allow the air to flow.
I used a long straight brush from the top of the door to the bottom, or from the bottom to the top.
I am trying to make a smooth stroke and keep the groove flow formed by the bristles in the paint, beautifully transitioning from one stroke to the next.
At this step, my beautiful toddler kindly took my painter tape and brown paper, but you should wait until your paint is dry/dry before taking it.
I drew the protective top coating with the same technique as the bottom coating, but I was more careful to paint the paint fast, smooth, straight line.
This coat becomes tacky and faster, and it gets dirty if you try to draw too late on the previously drawn area.
This can take a few minutes, so before moving to the next area, make sure that each area is then drawn and each area is completely completed.
If you find any dust in this step and you will, then you can try to remove the particles using your brand new synthetic brush.
If it\'s right where you \'ve just painted, you might want to remove that small piece of paint and re-apply it with a clean lint-free piece.
This particular paint seems to grab any random dust and hair from the entire community and apply it to my cabinet door.
So try to finish this step when dust and dirt are unlikely to be stirred, for example, when someone else is not at home or the window is not open, these windows may be carried in a dusty breeze.
Do you remember when I said it quickly became tacky?
Well, the instructions on this special protective clothing say let it dry for 24 hours!
So make sure it has enough time to dry.
Have you ever heard the phrase \"watch the paint dry?
\"Now you know the origin of it.
This step is both painful and boring.
You should wait 36 hours or more after finally applying the protective clothing so that you don\'t finish all the beautiful convenience work in March.
Yes, all the disorganized things on your floor are calling you like a haystack to get you back to their \"home\", but you can\'t listen.
Waiting for an extra few hours is easier than trying to fix any flaws that reckless might cause.
Clean, Clean, Clean! Again? ! ? !
This step should be easier than your first cleaning.
You need to clean up any spilled paint, trash, etc.
Remove all paint, brushes and other equipment and dispose of or place them in their respective areas.
This way you can remove the tape and sheets from the painter.
It\'s tempting to tear it all off in a satisfying moment.
This is a bad idea because the dry paint is attached to the paint on your cabinet.
You may tear off part of your gorgeous cabinet paint.
Instead, slowly remove the tape, cut any connected paint with a sharp blade, and leave a beautiful straight line transition between your wall and cabinet.
Handle tape and cloth properly. REJOICE! ! !
You can take back your living area now.
Do you remember all the work you did in carefully packing and handling precious tableware and food?
Well, it\'s going to be in use now.
If you tidy it up and pack it up, you can easily get into your item for use in the last few days, and now you can easily put it back in the right area of the cabinet.
You can also decide to change the location of each item in your cabinet as I did. Your choice.
Then I felt like cleaning the snow and singing with the lovely animals.
Everyone is very happy.
It looks beautiful here. This is handy. . .
Tralalalala \"this is where you really see the full effect of the labor of love, or the full effect of hatred so far.
Replace the hardware on the door and drawer and reconnect it to the cabinet.
Again, if you are able to mark and organize your doors, drawers, and hardware, it will be rewarded in this step.
You can quickly grab the right doors and the corresponding hardware and quickly screw them into the cabinet.
If, like me, for some unguarded reason you have to move the doors of the cabinets, they become chaotic and you will find the right door by trial and error and good old intuition.
The cabinet hardware I use is new, so when I pick it up in the store, I \'ve made sure to measure the distance between the holes before, in this way, it is not necessary to fill the previous hole with wood putty and drill the new hole.
For the same reason, I did not select the knob either.
I don\'t want to add more work and my heart is not on the knob either.
If you do, you need to fill the holes with wooden putty in the sanding step and then polish them to the rest of the door.
Since you have a nice, beautiful kitchen and it\'s clean and clean, you should sit down and enjoy the experience. . .
At least before you have to make dinner.
Or you can take it out in the next month or so until you no longer want to spoil anything that might threaten your beautiful work.
This is just the first stage of our four-part adventure in redecorating our outdated kitchen.
Our next adventure in the kitchen will include a new ceiling with metal bricks and embedded lighting;
Bamboo floors in kitchen, living room and dining room;
Last, but not least, the countertop with the subway tile backslashes.
Attached are some pictures showing the look of a white kitchen with concrete countertops, Metro tiles and wood floors.
We simply use them to find inspiration and have nothing to do with them.
My husband is a guiding fanatic who has even been trying and testing concrete-tops.
He has made a specific game table and seen it here, my husband\'s specific game table experiment!
I hope you like my first note.
I can\'t wait to share more!