This is the door I designed and built for tinyhouse on wheels, however, it can be applied to any internal department! The door frame is very simple to build with the right tools. Unfortunately, I did not take many photos of this step. To explain this photo, I can tell you that this is the type of joint I use in all 4 corners. This door frame is built on a cheap basis, so the only wood used is a normal 2x 4S and 2x6 s. The width and height of my door are small, so this step is just to show the basics. Normally the panel door is built with two or more panels for strength and decoration, however, for this building I decided to use a solid panel so that the interior of the closet section I ran 2x6s and 2x4s ( No specific size) On the table saw that sets the dado blade to 1/2. This can be done with a 1/4 blade with multiple channels or a 1/8 blade. Anyway, the frame itself is just two horizontal tongues with grooves between the two vertical rails. If you look at the picture, the groove on the edge is offset. . . . . . . . . . . . . This was done specifically to give more hollow space to use in the closet! The extra 3/4 \"for me is the difference between staying in the bathroom that is clogged or bulging inside the door! The way I set up the saw is to cut the groove 1/4 \"from the outside of the plate \". Once the plate has a groove, you can cut 2 vertical plates into length. Next, I cut the horizontal section super large so that the tongue can be cut at each end. Now a 1/2 piece of plywood can be cut to fill the space in the frame. If you are still reading, you may have some experience working on wood and can now stick everything together. I designed the closet opening to be roughly the same size as the door mirror ( 48 \"x 12\" in my case \") But it depends entirely on you. I removed some 2x4 scrap and made 1/2 \"x3\" stock with the planing bed. Using stock cutting, I first cut the shelves to 3 inch wide so they can be placed inside the door frame. Next, I rip off some of the 3 \"inventory drops to 3/8\" closet boards placed on top of the frame. This one doesn\'t need fancy carpentry because a pocket hole clamp can hold everything together. The number of shelves is determined by the builder, however, I made my shelves with 5 shelves. The horizontal plane at the bottom must have gaps so that it can be placed inside the frame and both ends cover the two vertical bottoms. ( In hindsight, now I realize I should cover the edge of the plate at the top and bottom with vertical lines. This eliminates the need for a bottom cut. ) When the closet part is cut and dry to install, I use the Kreg fixture to fix the closet plates together and fix them on the door frame. If you don\'t know what the Kreg fixture is, this is a pocket hole fixture that drill a hole precisely into the edge of the board to connect 2 pieces of wood, fancy joints that don\'t require a lot of time and effort. Just like building IKEA furniture! Anyway, I marked all the places that needed to be drilled to fix the closet on the frame and drill holes. I then drilled the wardrobe corner joint and the shelf joint. Once everything is installed and screwed together, I take everything apart and polish all the parts to fit in. After a dry installation with screws, I decided to add some tracks to the closet as support. For this I drilled 1/4 holes on the vertical plate to accommodate 1/4 pins. Finally, I stuck everything together. For this I didn\'t bother to stick the glue joint down because later it would be painted and not dirty. Ordinary wood is so common. It doesn\'t look special and doesn\'t get stains on very well, so the paint will make it look better. The next step is just all the small finishing touches. First, I set up the new door handle and pointed out the height of the installation. For me, I like to have the handle a little higher because I made the door card. . . . . . . . . . . . Do what I want! The door handle is likely to be a kit, so the instructions should show all the measurements required to cut the hole properly and the dimensions of the cut hole. You then have to flush the latch with the side of the door. Blah blah blah! After that, I recessed the door hinges and installed them. Now may be a good time to do some polishing ( Just to keep busy)! Oh yes, I also have to install some 1/2 hinges for The Mirror Door. Those must also be recessed and screwed down. So, pick up the little chisel and go to the chisel-ling! Sometimes it\'s better to have some plans, so, Draw Something. Even if it doesn\'t mean anything! When you get all the crap out of your head, you can start! After measuring the assembled closet frame, I did the math and worked out the frame size needed to support the mirror. I took the time to build the frame so that the mirror could be recessed with the frame. But, to be honest, I think it\'s a waste of time! That said, making a simple ladder frame and epoxy on the mirror is probably the easiest. I used the normal JB Weld from the port freight company. ( Things are good and cheap) Also, a good epoxy usually takes a whole day to harden, so use a soft clip to get it fixed for a while. After the epoxy hardened, I checked the installation of the wardrobe frame. Then, mark the position where each of the four small hinges will fall on the mirror --door frame. Punch out the chisel again and start working! This 1/2 thick frame may require very short screws, and the hinge bag is never short enough. I searched and couldn\'t think of anything! After getting angry, I decided to do some polishing ( Focus because I\'m bored). After that, I took a dremel tool for all the screws! I suggest not to get angry, just buy some suitable short screws! Arrange the hinges engraved inside the groove on the Mirror Door, which should be close to completion! At this point, the Mirror The door needs something to stay closed. I used 2 slide bar latch on top and bottom. But any lock is OK. Now the door-closet- You can install the mirror into the jam! I \'ve only built two doors from scratch before, but, before trying to go further, I do like putting the doors in place! This makes it easier to mark all the latch hardware, the stop of the door jam, and where everything else will go. I like to bring a pack of dollars. The 99 gasket inserts the door into the jam, marking the position where the hinge is located. Then cut the groove into jam. Once you\'re done, you can screw the entry hinge to see if you need a square. My door is a bit small in the top right corner, so I took it down and used a portable sander. . . . . . . . . ( Marks left by sanding hardwood floors) Make it right! Next, I had to cut a transition zone because our bathroom had a step that changed from wood on the floor to stone. I then cut the leftovers into 1/2 \"x1 1/2\", reclined in the jam in the bathroom. Our door swings to the hallway, so the last thing for me is to install the decor on one side of the corridor. Finally, I recessed the door handle stricker board. I am currently building a tinyhouse with wheels. So, with only 16 square feet of bathroom, I had to come up with extra storage. This one thing gives us all the space we need, it only uses the space of the width of the wall! If you want to see more of our small house visit [ At home. blogspot. com]. All the work is done outside, there is no shop, only basic hand and power tools. This is my first choice!